Hello and welcome

Hello all, and welcome to our Falkland Islands blog. Follow our progress through the wind, snow and penguins, and find out what it is like to live down here.

Monday 22 August 2011

A Busy Weekend

OK, so the problem with a blog is that you have to keep it up to date – not so easy when one is either totally chilled out, or busy preparing for the next adventure.

Saturday morning was spent trekking (no, let’s be honest, it was walking with a little purpose) down an inspiring gorge, full of tall and aged cacti (apparently they only grow c.1cm a year and most were well over 2 –3 m in height). What was even more amazing was that a lot of water was flowing in the stream, which goes on to feed San Pedro, making for a wonderfully green paradise of cacti and pampas grass deep in a gorge often 20-40m deep and frequently only a few metres wide. One thing is for certain that we would have not been likely to have found it if we had been on our own and even if we had, there would have been no vehicle out in the middle of the desert to collect us after a 2-hour walk. The cacti only grow at a certain altitude and it was telling that we were not really acclimatised to the height above sea level, starting at 3000m ASL we were all a little light-headed (and not just from the wine the night before).

In the afternoon we gained something of an impression of the vastness of the salt flats, at the north end of which San Pedro sits by driving south to Laguna Chaxa, which is sat somewhere towards the centre and which took an hour’s (rapid) driving to reach. Don’t think Utah salt flats and precision-smooth surfaces for land speed records, the centre of this place resembles more of a ploughed field. Close examination reveals that the clods of earth are, in fact, salt crystals – extremely big and extremely hard and the upper manifestation of salt deposits that are almost 1.5km thick! The lagunas themselves are the places where underground rivers reach the surface and feed these intensely saline lakes which, incredibly, support flocks of flamingos – most of which stayed sensibly away from the tourists, preferring to send one or two single ambassadors to preen and strut in front of the crowds. The colours generated by the setting sun were truly spectacular, set off by thousands of acres of yellowish salt flats.
Perhaps predictably having come to one of the areas of clearest sky in the world, our attempt to go star-gazing at a local observatory was cancelled on account of a big cloud bank sitting over San Pedro all afternoon. Naturally enough, the cloud had gone by evening!
 

Summer arrived in Chile on Sunday morning – at least according to the Government who instituted an early move to Summer Time, at least putting us back onto Falklands Time. Correctly judging our propensity for action, Marketa our guide and hotel owner sensibly suggested a 10am start. Our Sunday morning stroll took us down through ‘ Death Valley’ (or more aptly named by the Belgian priest who really established San Pedro: the Valley of Mars, which it resembles more than the Valley of the Moon might have lunar pretensions). This awe-inspiring rift in the ground literally opened at our feet to reveal jagged rock formations and vast sand dunes. The slide/surf/slip down the dunes to the bottom of the valley was not so much a method of transport as the means of moving huge quantities of sand from the top to the bottom; largely by means of filling our boots.

The second compulsory tourist activity of the day was a gentle horse trek (always a good idea when one’s daughter is allergic to things-equine). Anyhow, Chilean Health & Safety kicked in again and Phoebe, who has never really ridden, was hoist up onto an, albeit docile, animal and expected to follow everyone else (helmets and back-protectors: what are they???). As might be expected, she coped admirably and we enjoyed a gentle plod through some of the back streets and a neighbouring village, before cutting back across the desert in a serious series of minor sand storms, all very unusual for this time of year and blotting out the mountains all around us. If anything, it made the undertaking that bit more ‘adventurous’, and us even more grateful that we are staying somewhere with a shower. Of course, it also blotted out the next attempt to go star-gazing.

Sunday 21 August 2011

Friday August 19th

No escaping the physical exercise today. Bill's excuses were all used up, and without further ado, we were given bikes and told to cycle across a salt flat. Easy, I hear you say - it's flat, isn't it? Well yes it is, but cycling through a few inches of heavy sand is not my idea of a lazy morning. By the time we arrived at our destination 17km down the road, Phoebe was wondering if she would ever stand straight again. (Mind you she had been given the bike with the adjustable saddle, but with no movement in the handlebars, so she was at a very odd angle. Bill and I looked upon it as character building, and children are very flexible aren't they?).
Anyway, it was all worth it. Laguna Cejar - a deep blue salt lake in the middle of the salt flats, fed by underground tunnels running down from the Andes. Clear COLD water, full of krill. Salt crystals for a beach - incredible. All the other visitors were in their North face best (It is Winter here), but the Aldridges were determined to swim in this beautiful place. It has to be admitted that Bill got in first, and managed to float (more salt than the Dead Sea), but I did launch myself finally, and stayed in for at least 2 s. It was the coldest water I have EVER experienced, and I was momentarily unable to speak which has given Bill some hope for the future.  Having witnessed this tomfoolery, Phoebe sensibly tested the water to knee level and agreed that it was jolly chile (in joke).

Back to the ranch for lunch, and then a short dip in the hot tub (we like to look after ourselves a little), but no dozing under the cactus for us. We headed off to the Kari Gorge to walk through the most impressive salt formations. Tunnels, arches, caves, and simply massive and weird crystal conglomerations (have just put this in to make Phoebe laugh - she is merciless at my attempts to describe the stuff we have seen).Salt crystals growing in lines, bulbs, sheets - formations akin to the Giants Causeway, cathedral - like pillars - just fascinating. The crystal walls crack and groan like heating pipes, expanding and contracting as you walk through the gorge, and the rock sounds weirdly hollow. I am sure that GB health and safety would have a field day here. It would all be behind a big yellow fence before you could say chilean volcano..but we were OK-we dodged most of the sharp bits, and ducked when the bigger bits fell off unexpectedly; the problem with lack of water (and then unexpected rainfall), and constant freezing and thawing is rather an unstable environment. The best thing of all is that we do not seem to meet anyone esle on most of our hikes - we have much of this amazing place to ourselves..

Thursday 18 August 2011

Thursday 18 August

It must be a sign of age (or an inflamed achilles tendon – symptom of the same condition?) but the real adventure might be on temporary hold.  We elected not to ‘do’ the short/gentle 2 hour hike that our all-included/inclusive stay had organised but rather to be driven out to see the ‘Rainbow valley.
An hour’s drive out across the desert to our North took us to a particularly broken area of this vast panorama in which it is extremely difficult to gauge distance or scale – from the higher points (c. 3,000m) one can see at least 100km to the south across vast deserts and salt flats to the ring of volcanoes and mountains that are the real Andes (and the border with Bolivia and Argentina.  The scale is such that San Pedro feels as if it is right in the shadow of the main volcano of the region (border with Bolivia), yet it is 45 km distant.
En route to the Rainbow valley we stopped in the approach valley and wandered up a llama track (actually at this altitude one does not really ‘wander’ when you have come from living at sea-level!) to see some amazing petra-glyphs (rock carvings) of llamas etc.
Rainbow valley itself might not possess all the colours of said rainbow, but it tries hard with amazing hues of green, blue, white and brown and some pretty impressive formations in the mudstone (Phoebe, of course, really appreciated the opportunity for the ad hoc geography lesson!).  Everywhere, mica, gypsum and salt glinted in the sun whilst the temperature was a very pleasant 15-20 degrees (which is VERY cold for everyone else here!).
To add to the charm, on the way out we espied our first llamas (including a very newly born one) and later a solitary guanaco, before being brought back to our hotel for an extremely healthy lunch (we hadn’t quite realised just how much we were missing the salads!

(Having yet to get to grips with the discipline needed to maintain a weblog - precisely the reasons why I declined from maintaining one in my last job - a few days later I return to edit this particular part).
In  the afternoon we went to the moon; well, we did if the local pundits are to be believed: we visited the Valle de la Lune, which as all the guides will impress on you is the area in which much of NASA's equipment has been tested (cue Phoebe to explain how in 'Creative thinking' at school they had to discuss whether the lunar landings had been genuine.  Actually, they could have been filmed here...in fact I am sure that the Mars landings will be, as the landscape is so alien...)  Yet more amazing scenery and rock formations and the privilege of being taken off the more beaten track and away from the crowds of other grockles to bet some really stunning views of the sunset - well, of the colours created on the mountains to East.  Incredible!

Wednesday 17 August 2011

Wednesday August 17th

Time to leave Santiago. We have discovered that the house manager at the Embassy is called Macarena, and consequently want to stay and sing with her for ever..
However, a plane awaits us, and so back to the airport through the smog.
The air hostess convinced us that we COULD take our picnic and we would not be arrested for taking fruit and cheese on an internal flight so all was well..
What a view from that plane ! Stunning mountain ranges, snow and vast deserted plains..
Landing in to Calama was an event - a landing strip in the middle of the desert, just south of the huge chiquicima (?) copper mine, and a massey ferguson to transport our bags to the one reclaim belt.

An hour or so's drive through the desert - incredible scenery - salt formations, multi coloured rock, snow capped ex volcanos, and miles and miles of undulating, rippling, shadowy sand. Wonderful pleasant warmth and a steady breeze.
San Pedro de Atacama is the archetypal green blob in the middle of nowhere. How those travellers of old must have looked forward to seeing the change of colour on the horizon! It is a city made of mud and pebbles, with a white church made of cactus wood and adobe - the second oldest in Chile - 15/16th century.
Our lodge is whacky - adobe with wood burner and impressive showers. The stars are fabulous - the milky way is blinking at us and the southern cross stares out of the sky.
The adventures start tomorrow.

Tuesday August 16th

So today Bill had to sing for his supper - he spent the morning in the embassy finding out how to be the South American James Bond. When he finally emerged, we decided (the girls) that retail therapy was needed, and we jumped confidently on a couple of buses to find the artisan village of los Dominicos. Fun but touristy - chickens, peacocks, and an inordinate amount of cats. We looked at enough lapis lazula to last a lifetime, and admired more of those colourful cardigans loved by the chileans. Still haven't managed to convince Bill to buy one (just what you need for dress down Friday..) We had a wine tour booked at Aquitania, and decided to jump in a taxi. A tiny winery established by 3 frenchmen (including a Bollinger) and 1 Chilean, now producing some award winning wines. We shared a tour and some wine with two people from Rio, and felt confident that we could guess which bus might get us home. Mmm. After going round in circles for a while, we arrived on a bus going in roughly the right direction, and it fortuitously spat us out round the corner from the restaurant we had earmarked or supper.Hoorah.

Monday August 15th

We were invited to a real Chilean BBQ today! (asado) .The Defence Attache at the embassy, not knowing us, and consequently thinking we might be good company , had arranged for us to join his family at Rodrigo's home - a military colleague from the Chilean military engineering academy. Paddy and Margrit and their two boys (Chris at Durham, Alex awaiting A level results) drove us out into the countryside one hour south of Santiago to meet Rodrigo, Susan and their four girls. Rodrigo was not dissimilar to the men of the UK -I/C BBQ, lots of fanning and plates of meat - but the product was fabulous - chorizo sausage, smoked trout, a very upmarket type of chilean beef pasty, slabs of beef, and most important of all we were introduced to the pisco sour - a vodka-like spirit mixed with lemon juice, freshly squeezed - delicious. We finally swung home just in time to go out for an evening meal in the city. Great day.

Monday 15 August 2011

Chile ! Sunday August 14th

Phoebe has stolen our thunder, but I shall try to find something to add. Fabulous to be away from the wind and snow. Gentle warm sunshine yesterday as we walked around Santiago. Managed to mime sufficiently well to buy a bip card - I think it's like an oyster card and seems to be working well. Our spanish was stretched when we tried to ask ' if each trip is approx 570 pesos in off peak and 650 pesos in peak, what happens on a bank holiday and how many trips can we make - is it cumulative or not?' Think waving arms, desperate facial expressions and lots of graciases..
Street entertainers everywhere which make wandering more fun. The remants from the student riots (they are unhappy about education provision) are everywhere - schools boarded up, piles of desks, and HUGE banners stretched across all sorts of buildings. But we have come across no trouble.
The cathedral was spectacular in a catholic over-the-top kind of a way. Lots of glitz and paint and fake (what is it with fake flowers and catholic churches?) flowers. Although actually they had augmented them and decorated beautifully with fresh lilies and gladioli for the festival.  
The museum was, as we had been told, fascinating. It focuses on history pre -european influence. Ceramics which were alternately whimsical and primitive, and delicate and fine. Lots of beautiful artefacts to accompany the dead into the next world. Fun bottles in the shape of animals, whistles in the shape of birds and lizards.. The textiles were cleverly displayed, alongside the tools that were used, and some explanation and diagrams of how to weave/sew to achieve the particular result. Very fine intricate work - weaving in some cases with paddles only an inch or so across.
A room full of huge wooden statues (think wooden easter island statues) which were used as 'mourners' at funerals - moved around to stand at your funeral to ensure everything was done properly, and the spirits would not be unhappy. 
Wandered home through artisan markets and via the house of Pablo Neruda - Chile's famous poet. 
Off to a local restaurant last night - busy busy and fun.
Sleep !    G x

Sunday 14 August 2011

Saturday 13th August

Off to Chile!

We set off to Mount Pleasant airport mid-afternoon,(only five minutes drive) and were pleased to be informed that the flight was running an hour ahead of time. So, after waiting comfortably in the CBF's lounge, we got onto the plane. The first flight was only an hour and a half long, and felt as though it whizzed by.

However, halfway through the next four hour flight, one of the air-hostesses needed a doctor, meaning that we had to make an emergency landing. Once we had landed, we were then told(in Spanish!) that we needed to wait another two hours for another plane from Santiago to arrive so that we would have the correct amount of air-hostesses. Finally, at 24:50-ten to one in the morning, the Santiago plane arrived and we finished the rest of the flight.
In Santiago, we got a taxi at 3:30am to the embassy flat where we are staying.

Today, after a long sleep, we walked into the center of the city, and went into the markets, museum, and cathedral, which was all prepared for the religious bank holiday tomorrow with flowers(artificial), and banners.

In the museum, there were various artifacts which were mostly ancient pottery, woven cloth, and little figurines sculpted out of either gold, copper, pottery, cloth, or wood. They were all very primitive even though, in England, it was the time of Henry VIII! 

In the textiles area, there were woven cloth, straw dolls, embroidery, needles made from cacti spikes. My favourite was a piece of cloth with embroidered lizards on, and the lizard head stuck out of the cloth.

Later on, we went to a cafe, another market, and then we got a bus back to the flat where we all had baths!

By Phoebe

Thursday 11 August 2011

Bertha's Beach on Thursday 11th August

Today, after our trip to Fox Bay being cancelled due to the Helicopters, we drove down to Bertha's Beach after lunch. On the way, we saw Black Necked swans, and, as you can imagine, they are white with a black neck and head, and usually only found on the Falklands, or South America.
We walked for about 35 minutes, crossing ponds and streams seeing some very large Mullet jumping out of the water, and watching the Upland geese and the sheep. Then, we finally we saw lots of black and white blobs. As we got closer, we saw that they were Gentoo Penguins up in the marshy moorland beyond the sand dunes. They didn't seem frightened at all, even when we were about 5 metres away!! Only after about 15 minutes of having their photos taken, did they turn around, flapping their wings, and waddle away, as you can see in the picture. 
On the way back to the beach, we saw another colony of Gentoos, more Upland Geese, and back on the beach, we saw our first ever Flightless Steamer Ducks. There were also some Two Banded Plovers, and Oyster Catchers. Then we saw some dolphins, porpoises, and seals playing in the water, and a big black bird which was either a Shearwater, baby Albatross(?) or a Petrel.
Tonight, we are having yet another dinner-party for the Governor, some Islanders, and some new people to Mount Pleasant. All the snow has gone now, and has left slush, and puddles everywhere!
By Phoebe xxx

Sunday 7 August 2011

Sunday August 7th

What weather ! Justin, the met man from down the road, had warned that Thursday night would be exciting, and as a result the airbridge to UK was brought forward to miss the storm, but in the event the snow appeared on Friday afternoon. By the evening, we were not able to open the front door because of the wind, and by Saturday, we had 3-4 feet of drifting in front of the house.

The dogs were not put off -Archie loves the snow and galloped madly (or he could have been trying to chase an upland goose). Finn has found a new enthusiasm for the outdoors now that we have equipped him with his 'hotter dog' jumper -a fleece which has legs for his front paws, and fits right round his tummy!

Have a look for the upland goose on the net - they marry for life, bless them, and wander around in pairs, chatting to each other. They are quite differnt though - the male is white and grey, and the female brown and chestnut, with yellow legs. Archie inevitably has decided their pooh is similar to foie gras. 

We have the Governer Governor (which is it??) coming to dinner on Thursday, and a guy who lectures on the Falklands war, so that should be interesting.
Last night was the mess dinner for Bill's 'dining in'. Over 100 attended, and it was a good night  - some of the young officers were determined to let their hair down, and there were huge roars of approval when Bill deigned to join in the mexican wave which they were desperately trying to move around the entire hall...

Today, our helicopter trip was sadly cancelled - a problem with the fuel - but we are off on a couple of trips this week. We are flying to Fox Bay , and taking the Gov (no problem with the spelling now!) with us. Apparently they are preparing CAKES. GOOD !

Must sign off now and venure into the kitchen. Sunday is my day without a chef, and I need extra time to find where he has hidden everything.

Enjoy your sunshine if you are in the UK. We are not jealous..

 

Wednesday 3 August 2011

10 days in!

Hello all ! We will all add bits and pieces as we can , to keep you up to date during our stay in the South Atlantic. These first few days may be rather random as we find our feet, but hopefully we will give you a flavour of our life.
So far, we have got to know the familiar green and brown buildings with uninspiring names and architecture, which make up Mount Pleasant Complex. Not on a mount, and not very pleasant really, but it's not all bad.

Our house is a bungalow, very cosy and warm, and with a great team who arrive before 7am and look after us all day. I feel like a victorian housekeeper and can no longer lounge in bed but have to be up and look busy! Gone are the days of singing loudly in the kitchen as we made a huge gooey mess.
I thnnk we must be a trial to our housekeeper who is having to cope with this strange family who have arrived with children and animals to mess up her previously spotless domain.

The complex has great facilities as you would expect - gyms, swimming pool, bowling alley, cinema - but is short on retail therapy; one dodgy NAAFI with largely empty shelves. The 'supermarket' (think small town co-op on a bad day) is 36 miles away along a gravel road in interesting weather.

I am off to the Master Driver's Winter training on Saturday so that Phoebe and I can single handedly skid through mud and ice and change landrover tyres.

We have so far visited the metropolis of Stanley, as Phoebe said - a cross between the Waltons and County Galway gives you the flavour  - and Bertha's Beach, which was stunning, with white sand and snow, and crashing waves.

Today we have driven past Goose Green and on up to Darwen which is beautiful - frozen lakes, moorland, and snow capped mountains in the distance. We saw the argentine cemetary, and the spot where H Jones fell. There are memorials everywhere, and plenty of locals to tell you exactly how it was in 1982 .

We hope to go to Bleaker island on Sunday - weather dependant!

We have arrived!

We arrived down in the Falklands last week after the long flight,to find that it was snowing.(We have made a snowman)We have also already visited places such as Stanley(the capital city), and Darwin: consisting of 5 houses, and loads of chickens and sheep. On the way, we saw a Caracara bird(and a lot of sheep!)Then, we went needle felting there, and discovered that you can go to do wet felting, spinning, weaving, and dying. We both made felt penguins; mine with an iceberg and a bow-tie, and mummy's was a rockhopper/king which went with a felt fish that she also made.