Hello and welcome

Hello all, and welcome to our Falkland Islands blog. Follow our progress through the wind, snow and penguins, and find out what it is like to live down here.

Sunday 27 November 2011

Pebble Island 26 & 27 November

With only one weekend available before the 8,000 mile school run, we escaped to one of the Outer Islands for a short weekend – an extended day certainly felt much longer than the average weekend given the luxury of getting right away from it all.  Pebble Island is famous for the SAS raid on the airfield during the 1982 Conflict but it offers a great deal more.
Arriving late morning on Saturday we were greeted by Ken at the airstrip and Sharon in the Lodge and after the obligatory (and delicious) tea and biscuits, Ken drove us up to the HMS Coventry memorial before leaving us to our own devices.  The cunning part of this plan was that the memorial is sited half-way up First Mountain and therefore our walk would be largely downhill thereafter.  With the morning’s forecast of increasing winds and likelihood of showers high in our minds, we were not too disappointed to find ourselves in a strong wind and the chance of squalls in this exposed location but we did remain long enough for me to get the brasso out and give the memorial’s plaque a good shine.  (No, I don’t go on walking trips with a comprehensive domestic cleaning kit in my rucsac; all the memorials have an old ammo tin, or 2, nearby full of such things to spruce up the respective memorial.)
Typically, therefore, just as soon as we started down the hillside, the squalls disappeared and we had a glorious (if windy afternoon).  It was sobering to walk through the wreckage field of an Argentine Dagger (Mirage) but having our sandwiches above Magellanic penguin burrows, waiting for them to stick their heads out, was an altogether different experience; as was walking into a roosting colony of South American Terns – the noise and movement was spectacular!  The prize for persistency, however, has to go to the Magellanic Oystercatchers – definitely the watchmen of the foreshore with their very loud alarm calls and tireless efforts to distract you (we did also learn that these are the only birds that will kill skuas – given the carnage we know that these can wreak on Penguin eggs and chicks, our respect for these busy little birds has increased massively!).   A really pleasant walk way from everybody (there was a total of 13 people on the island!) past hundreds of Magellanic Penguin burrows and along part of the pristine sand beach (at 4 miles, the longest in the Falklands) got us back to the Settlement and the lodge – a very comfortable residence run by Jackie Jennings and Allan White (who was absent at their new home on Lively Island).
After a luxuriously lazy night and bumper breakfast we joined the other 6 guests on a drive out to the East end of the Island to see the sizeable Rockhopper colonies – shared with Imperial Cormorants at the top of some pretty large and spectacular cliffs.  These birds are real characters; they are not bothered by our presence, indeed, the penguins are curious little birds and will close up on you if you sit still.  Despite the continuing predations of the skuas and petrels, most still seem to have at least one egg and many still have 2.  Mixed in amongst them were also a handful of macaroni penguins (slightly bigger and with orange, not yellow, eyebrows) – so that is now all 5 Falkland species seen (don’t tell Phoebe!!).  The morning had started grey and overcast but by now it had all burned off and we were blessed with a really warm, sunny day with only a steady breeze – perfect conditions to sit out and watch the wildlife.  A short drive away we visited a number of Gentoo colonies – well inland and with the birds nesting in the diddle-dee (think small shrub).  These birds are more advanced in their reproductive cycle with most nursing 2 chicks (again, the Darwinian approach to evolution, given the constant threat from skuas) – small grey bundles spending most of their time tucked away under one or other of their parents.  Gentoos may not be the most ‘characterful’ of the penguins but it was especially relaxing to sit and watch (and listen) to the contented colony (except when a b****y skua flew over: all the adults stretched their beaks upwards and swore).
Lunch was had sat on the cliffs on the north  of the island after spending ages lying on slabs of rock half-way down them watching 2 large harems of sea lions sunbathing (approx 30 animals in toto) at the bottom – these are big animals, even from 40 feet above they are impressive!  After negotiating what seemed to be acres more of Magellanic burrows, a stop to look for Pebble Island ‘pebbles’ (agate: sadly for Gill, whilst I was able to find some, it will take quite a while to turn it into jewellery!) on one of the beaches punctuated the drive back.  After a race down the 4 mile beach (also the reserve airstrip) both of us jumped out to walk the final mile back in order to sneak up on a young male (or female) sea lion lying fast asleep on the bank of one of the inland lakes – although not far from the sea one wonders if he was geographically embarrassed!  Prudence ensured that we did not get too close, but it certainly did not seem disturbed at all!  Time then for a quick cup of tea before flying back to the real hub-bub of Mount Pleasant!

Thursday 24 November 2011

Back in England!!!

Hellooo everyone,

Back here at school, we are undefeated in netball, and have a lacrosse match this weekend! Mrs. H. is baking again for the lucky boarders who are getting the cookies every week. At the moment, we are working on a R.S. essay, about to be given an English essay, and have just handed in a History essay. Ahhh!

Christmas soon, and holidays!!!
Phoebe

Thursday 17 November 2011

Saunders island

Busy week with visitors, but yesterday I played truant; the heli had spaces,and I went on the post run, first to Mount Alice on West Falkland (the power station guys live up there miles from anywhere for months at a time,and we were delivering supplies and post, then on to Fox Bay (a large settlement on the West) and then on to Saunders Island .We were flying for over an hour, and at one point the typhoon roared past, waggled its wings and then flew underneath us! We landed on moorland near the main penguin colonies, and had 4 hours to ourselves. Mr and Mrs Pole-Evans run Saunders island - apart from them, the place is deserted - but it is quite a substantial island - probably 10 miles or so from their house to where we landed, with no road.

It was an idyllic day - windy as normal, but blue skies and warmth. The hole in the ozone is right above us here, so we do have to be very careful. We hosted the fusiliers for lunch last week, and they were all burnt like walnuts after a 5 hour yomp across the island.
It is about 40 minutes walk from the landing site down to the beach. As you reach and summit the hill, the 'neck' - a sandy beach joining two hills - stretches out in front of you, covered with hundreds of black dots - gentoos. As you get closer, you can see them running in and out of the water, flopping on their bellies, and jumping the waves.  On the side of the rocks, our first Rockhopper penguins (if you are reading this Phoebe - don't worry, I'll take you there). Tiny - 30cm or so, living happily mixed up with imperial cormorants who were busy plucking moorland to build their nests, the Rockhoppers are fascinating. Curious little creatures, jumping from rock to rock, up, up from the sea, higher up the cliffs, splashing in waterfalls and stopping to have a good look at us , with no fear at all. Sitting still for even 5 minutes brings a line of penguins trudging past your seat. Little red eyes and wild yellow eyebrows..and many have already laid an egg - the size of a chicken egg - and keep jumping off to check it's still there.
Further along the path,and the rockhoppers give way to.., albatross. This is what I came to the Falklands to see. Amazing birds. Calm, elegant, they are sitting on little mud sand castle nests which they have carefully built. From time to time they move and you can see a huge white egg. They are very much married; their partner arrives regularly, and they begin a preening routine which is gentle and meticulous. Their feathers are so clean; these are black browed albatross, pure white bodies, grey wings, and a kohl black line swept across the tops of their eyes.Their feet are a ghostly grey. Again,no fear, so one landed by my head and plodded up to me to take a look. Huge beak - a little intimidating,but no sign of aggression..and when they fly, their elegant slim wings stretch out so far. The wing span is huge - 2-3 m I think.
Down to the beach, and around 20 King penguins, looking terribly smart with their yellow throats. An old whale skeleton,and then hundreds of gentoo penguins. I sat on the beach and watched happy penguins waddling in and out of the waves as I ate my sandwich. A pretty good picnic spot.
I will be back!

Weaving and Spinning..


Another weekend gone, and what have we done? Well Monday was a day at Darwen. This is the small settlement just across from Goose Green, a place made famous in the conflict. A few white wooden houses amid fields dotted with scorching yellow gorse, and against the backdrop of deep blue sea.
Bonnie and Ken Greenland live at Darwen, with their sheep, ducks, geese and chickens. They own Darwen house, which is run by Graham and Fiona as a small lodge, and they run craft days (Bonnie) and Battlefield tours (Ken). This area is the site of much of the fighting,and round the corner from the house is the memorial to H Jones on the sport where he fell.

 Everything is having babies at the moment - there are fat lambs, tiny yellow and black chicks, flappy goslings, and they are all running madly around together. Bonnie lives by the water - it is an idyllic spot in the Summer -peaceful and away from everything.  Take a look at the pictures.. It is an hour's drive from Mount Pleasant Complex, so very popular for those wanting to escape and treat themselves to Smoko (Falklands version of Kaffee und Kuchen).
I am very proud as I have finally ventured out on the scary gravelly muddy roads. As it is Summer, this is really not a huge ask, but I am glad to have found my freedom, even if driving is a matter of holding your breath and acute concentration!
So yesterday, I was spinning - my second day. I am fairly unskilled, but sitting in Bonnie's outhouse with a group of friends, each with a spinning wheel, around a huge pile of shearings, is a wonderful way to spend a morning.
Lunch is soup made by Fiona, a stroll across the fields. The poor old sheep are sweltering with their winter coats,but the shearers are not due here until December. The NZ teams are travelling around the island, but it takes around 4 months!

After lunch, I left everyone spinning, and headed back to base as we had another visitor arriving on the airbridge. Everyone was on time,and my diet was put back another day as we hosted a small supper party.

Tuesday is admin, swimming, girlie coffees and lunch with the visitors. I have been doing a small amount of work, which is enjoyable, and am fairly busy with Army Family Federation stuff. Certainly not bored, and as yet not finding the time I thought I had would have to sew, make bread and sort our photos!
We have a night off from entertaining tonight - our house guest is eating elsewhere, so we just have to remember not to be drunk before he comes home.
Bill and the HQ are very busy with plans at present - not a spare minute - and the landrover is leaking diesel, so I will have to go and find someone to help...

Tuesday 15 November 2011

Remembrance Weekend

A busy weekend inevitably - Friday was a service at the base, with the old gym full to capacity - clergy from the forces and from Stanley,and children from the school. Service personnel read personal tributes to colleagues who had died, or contributed reflections on Remembrance day. The last post, and lots of singing.
Saturday was work as normal, (while Bill is in the office, I have been very busy planting on my seedlings - this is not a hobby over here - it is vital - butternut squash will come from nowhere if not from my greenhouse...) and in the afternoon we headed into Stanley in readiness for the Services on Sunday. A blustery day,but bright,and we arrived in time to take the dogs down to Surf bay - a stunning white beach, angled so that the prevailing wind catches the waves and whips white surf into the air. The dogs were utterly excited as we spotted a huge dead petrel. This beach is one of the many cleared minefields, and it is amazing how little has been removed since the conflict. Amongst the dunes and tussock grass, we found old argentine tents, abandoned.

Saturday night was very exciting -we went out for dinner in the one hotel !! Very decent food, and civilised surroundings. We felt almost normal - until we returned to our posh portacabin on the Hillside base which is the army outpost in Stanley, and our accommodation when we venture over there.
Sunday morning found us in best dress and hats (both of us) at the Governor's house for 9am. Off to Church in a convoy,with the Governor winning the best hat (Remember Rex Hunt and those feathers?).
Back for coffee,and then off again to the Memorial and a wonderful view over the sea as we held the Remembrance service outside. Islanders and tourists attended, and I gave up on my hat - impossible. The Governor hung on to his, but couldn't move his head in case of disaster! We attempted to have a dignified exit in our cavalcade of Landrovers after the service, Governor leading, all of Stanley watching - but inevitably the dogs stood up in the car and stared back at the crowd, which amused and bemused in equal measure.

A reception afterwards in the FIDF (Local defence Force) Hall. Fascinating stories of locals who had grown upon South Georgia when whaling was still the big business down there. Now there are handful of people on the island - but 50 years ago there were still 1500. What an incredible place to spend your childhood.

Don, 90 odd, and the chauffeur for many governors, including Rex Hunt (I drove Maggie!) was a great story teller; a merchant seaman until he married, he left in 1943 to join the war, and  didn't return until a ship he was working on passed by in 1950. Married,and with children on the way (7 in the end!) he worked on the farms at Goose Green, and remembers Stanley in the 1950s with 4 cars. To get home from Stanley, he faced a 13 hour ride across the moors, using three horses - ride one and lead two, in case of exhaustion and lameness (horses were not shod as there were no metalled roads).
Finally home on Sunday, to get ready for the week, and drive out to Swan inlet for driving practice for me!

Saturday 12 November 2011

Busy !!

Remembrance weekend this weekend, so hectic - and a busy time over recent weeks- home for half term with Phoebe and apple pressing, and then back to real Spring time down here, and a long line of visitors  - sadly all military!
Highlights of the past week or two since coming back have been clear blue skies and sunny days, walks on the beach, and watching the dolphins. Commerson's dolphins are smaller than average, black and white (the soldiers who came to lunch yesterday saw some from their landing craft and nearly upturned as they rushed across to see the 'killer whales'!). Dolphins genuinely seem to enjoy playing. They rush in with the waves, nose to the very edge of the water, and just as the wave breaks, they 'tube' along it. I don't think this is fishing - just fun. All the animals are very curious,and when you are on the beach, seals and dolphins all pop up heads to see what is going on.

Last night we were at a British Legion reception at government house,and met Archie who has been with the British Antarctic survey, and is now involved with the government of South Georgia. He was describing the view from his office- snow ice and penguins. Some of the Antarctic Survey guys had just arrived back after sailing across in what I would call a very small yacht! - it apparently took 5 weeks, and having heard the stories of the size of the waves, I think they must be mad, but they seem to take it in their stride. I am told that BAG men are easy to spot because they always wear moleskin trousers. It was true last night at the reception,so I offer this piece of information to you as a future life changer. Leigh Anne Wolfaardt (see her website - her penguin pictures are beautiful) is an artist who works here. She is currently volunteering on South Georgia with a conservation group. they are trying to eradicate the rats from the island as they are very destructive to wildlife, and not indigenous, so she is spending two weeks helping to map and count. Not sure if we are going to get beautiful drawings of rats!So many of the younger people here have come to the island to study a specific animal, generally for the FI Government, or for the BAG, and then extend their time and stay to complete PhDs and enjoy themselves. it makes for interesting company..  

This week we have hosted MLAs (MPs) to dinner, as well as four British MPs who were down on a visit to the islands. Fraser  Nicholson, head of Air Sea Rescue,and a friend from Germany,has stayed all week, which was so nice. He was here for the announcement that one of his Flt Lts is coming to work here for 6 weeks in February..the confirmation of Prince William's tour apparently sent Government house into a spin as the press rang, emailed,faxed and generally bothered them all day. The hope is that he can carry out his normal job and have an everyday existence down here. I imagine he has more chance here of escaping the press than most places! The new captain of HMS Dauntless was also over with us this week - he hopes his ship will be ready to sail in a fortnight,and we should see him in March, to hear all his stories.Dauntless is around our waters to help look after us, but I think he will call into various South American and African ports before arriving in the South Atlantic.

We are off to Stanley now, to stay the night and attend the remembrance services tomorrow in the Cathedral. Camp Services were all here on Friday,so tomorrow will be about the islanders and locals. A number of veterans are in town - the start of the 30th anniversary celebrations. Four members of the Ardent association (sunk during the conflict) are with us, so tomorrow will be very poignant for them.