Well we stayed at home for a couple of minutes and then set off again to show Phoebe another part of the island - Race Point Farm up past San Carlos Water ( - names from the conflict - San Carlos Water was where many of the ships came in, and Ajax Bay was the big field hospital), along from Wreck Point, and around 2-3 hours drive from home. It is dry - actually we have had no rain for weeks - so the clay roads are driveable, and the scenery spectacular. Up high over the hills above San Carlos Water, with fabulous views of sea and coastline. A picnic almost out of the car on top of Sussex mountain (is that right Bill?) in STRONG wind. Phoebe refusing to get out, and the dogs sheltering in the boot.
We arrived at John and Michelle's in the afternoon in time to take a walk in the sunshine down to the beach, and to explore the piles of ammunition boxes left from the conflict. We have our eye on them - me for growing beans in, and Phoebe for the coolest tuck box..
Recycling has not yet hit the islands. there is some discussion at present about whether waste should be returned on the Supply vessel for recycling in the UK, but there is no movement yet. In the meantime, every farm has a bay which is full of the remnants of the 'abbattoir' - sheep bones and teeth aplenty mixed in with the pebbles; and a bay or a hole which is generally full of old fencing and bits of tractor. Not much is wasted here, and little food arrives on the farm in packaging, so rubish is minimal, but as the problem grows, so the solution will have to come..
I felt lousy later, so went to sleep, while Phoebe and Bill went fishing for the evening. Success! Phoebe's fish was duly eaten for tea, and we snuggled up to watch the next session of Lord of the rings which has been the film of this Christmas..
Phoebe and Talia, 6 year old daughter at the farm, headed off on the quadbike to see Pepper the new black pig - I saw Phoebe disappear over the distant hill, hair streaming behind her.
Back to MPH and preparations for Christmas...
Tuesday, 24 January 2012
Thursday, 29 December 2011
Escape to Bleaker ! (19 - 21 December)
We have all wanted to visit Bleaker island - close to the mainland, with its own sheep (lamb for the bbq) and cattle (milk on a good day!). Finally,our chance to escape for a couple of days to stay at Cobb's cottage, and some peace and quiet. We flew into the settlemen ton Monday 19th in glorious sunshine. Elaine and Robert live here all year round, quite alone apart from visitors (and Mike and Phyl Rendell, who own the island, whenever they are able to escape their duties in Stanley).
Cobb's cottage is very neat and rural - red roofed, all alone and surrounded by green fields, pet lambs and goslings, with a view of the jetty, the sea, and the spectacular southern giant petrels soaring overhead.
After lunch we set off for the sea lion colony, 20 minutes from the cottage - a gentle walk along the coast and then across the island. Accompanied by double banded plovers (shore birds with feet that move so fast it is hard to see them - and the tiniest babies, running alongside (think less than half the size of a wren), magellanic oystercatchers (elegant, black and white dippers, with long red daggers for beaks - capable of killing the big horrible predatory skua by stabbing..), petrels (wingspan up to nearly 2m, fabulous creatures), and the horrid horrid skua - big, brown, ruthless, and always ready to eat someone else's baby. The sea lions were fascinating - around 30 or so, flopping noisily on the flat rocks in the sun. One huge male,with a spectacular 'mane' and a selection of females and young. The male works hard to keep his harem - growing, barking, grumbling. An adolescent male stayed in the waves just off shore,bobbing and watching - and when he saw his chance, landed and lay at the end of the colony. The established male suddenly noticed, launched across the rocks - and in a split second, the younger male was gone - he didn't hang around to question; it was clearly not yet his time.
We spent a long time sitting and watching the social behaviour - it is addictive - incredible to realise that this other world,with its social complexities and environmental difficulties, goes on completely without our interference, and in general without our knowledge.
Back to the cottage; we had asked Elaine for a bbq pack ( beef steak,lamb steak,home made beefburgers, and sausages for each of us - no veggies here), and we set off for the bbq barn to cook our supper. Excellent bbq, and fabulous sunset views. Phoebe fed the pet lambs. We wandered down to the jetty and watched the cormorants diving. Wonderful day.
Day 2 and we decided to set off with a picnic for the north of Sandy Bay, where the gentoo colony live. Falkland Islanders are not reknowned for their imagination, and Bleaker proudly boasts Sandy Bay, Sandy Bay island, Pebbly Bay, First island, Second island and Third island. Mmm
Sandy Bay is stunning; white, massive, and empty, apart from lines of magellanic and gentoo penguins trudging to the sea (and hanging about; they set off to fish and then all seem to congregate on the foreshore for a bit of a chat - it's a bit like going to the pub I think). There are also a number of cattle, which seem a little surreal set next to the penguins, but they seem to rub along. We walked up to the colony, intending to have our lunch in the company of penguin chicks, and inadvertantly entered a skua nesting site. We were dive bombed mercilessly; these are big birds, and we had to duck and run, with Bill waving sticks above our heads to fend them off.
We picnicked a couple of metres away from the colony; ate our sandwiches and then wriggled forwards on our stomachs to watch the feeding and the impressive fending off of the skuas. Most gentoos seem to produce two eggs - so two fast growing and unruly babies to control. Gorgeous pale grey balls of fluff, initially the size of your fist, but within two weeks around a foot tall, and comical to watch. The parents stretch their necks to the sky and screech, defending their young. These animals fight hard and selflessly, but many eggs are stolen and babies killed.
On the way back, we found the rockhopper colony at the top of the cliffs, behind great mounds of tussock grass. These tiny penguins, about 30cm high, chatter constantly and are always busy, running, hopping, scolding. They are enchanting; a little society of their own, with their tiny babies just hatching. They bend over like little old people and scurry around, climbing up high cliffs, hop hop with their fish to feed their family.
Around the corner is the largest colony of King Cormorants we have yet seen. Thousands of birds, all sitting on nests of eggs or chicks. Beautiful elegant birds, with swan necks, irridescent blue eyes, and orange pom poms on their beaks. As they come in to land, they hover, brake with feet down and splayed,and drop their necks into an architectural arch. Inevitably, the colony is surrounded by skuas - but again, these birds are not only courageous for their own families, but for their community; we witnessed a group of birds squaring up to a skua in front of a single nest -a line of four male cormorants in a line a bit like footballers standing in front of the goal. They took it in turns to run at the skua - a bird two or three times their size.
Another bbq, another big sky, more feeding of lambs, and a quiet quiet night; no noise, apart from the waves, no light pollution. We have become accustomed to islands without roads, lights, cars, and generally without many people. We may need to be re-socialised...
Day 3 - proper Falklands weather - this morning it hailed. We went to the shop (!)which is Robert's store shed where he keeps two big freezers full of his meat. We chose our Sunday roasts for the next few weeks, filled up our cool box, and then wandered on the beach until the heli arrived. Back to normality..
u
Cobb's cottage is very neat and rural - red roofed, all alone and surrounded by green fields, pet lambs and goslings, with a view of the jetty, the sea, and the spectacular southern giant petrels soaring overhead.
After lunch we set off for the sea lion colony, 20 minutes from the cottage - a gentle walk along the coast and then across the island. Accompanied by double banded plovers (shore birds with feet that move so fast it is hard to see them - and the tiniest babies, running alongside (think less than half the size of a wren), magellanic oystercatchers (elegant, black and white dippers, with long red daggers for beaks - capable of killing the big horrible predatory skua by stabbing..), petrels (wingspan up to nearly 2m, fabulous creatures), and the horrid horrid skua - big, brown, ruthless, and always ready to eat someone else's baby. The sea lions were fascinating - around 30 or so, flopping noisily on the flat rocks in the sun. One huge male,with a spectacular 'mane' and a selection of females and young. The male works hard to keep his harem - growing, barking, grumbling. An adolescent male stayed in the waves just off shore,bobbing and watching - and when he saw his chance, landed and lay at the end of the colony. The established male suddenly noticed, launched across the rocks - and in a split second, the younger male was gone - he didn't hang around to question; it was clearly not yet his time.
We spent a long time sitting and watching the social behaviour - it is addictive - incredible to realise that this other world,with its social complexities and environmental difficulties, goes on completely without our interference, and in general without our knowledge.
Back to the cottage; we had asked Elaine for a bbq pack ( beef steak,lamb steak,home made beefburgers, and sausages for each of us - no veggies here), and we set off for the bbq barn to cook our supper. Excellent bbq, and fabulous sunset views. Phoebe fed the pet lambs. We wandered down to the jetty and watched the cormorants diving. Wonderful day.
Day 2 and we decided to set off with a picnic for the north of Sandy Bay, where the gentoo colony live. Falkland Islanders are not reknowned for their imagination, and Bleaker proudly boasts Sandy Bay, Sandy Bay island, Pebbly Bay, First island, Second island and Third island. Mmm
Sandy Bay is stunning; white, massive, and empty, apart from lines of magellanic and gentoo penguins trudging to the sea (and hanging about; they set off to fish and then all seem to congregate on the foreshore for a bit of a chat - it's a bit like going to the pub I think). There are also a number of cattle, which seem a little surreal set next to the penguins, but they seem to rub along. We walked up to the colony, intending to have our lunch in the company of penguin chicks, and inadvertantly entered a skua nesting site. We were dive bombed mercilessly; these are big birds, and we had to duck and run, with Bill waving sticks above our heads to fend them off.
We picnicked a couple of metres away from the colony; ate our sandwiches and then wriggled forwards on our stomachs to watch the feeding and the impressive fending off of the skuas. Most gentoos seem to produce two eggs - so two fast growing and unruly babies to control. Gorgeous pale grey balls of fluff, initially the size of your fist, but within two weeks around a foot tall, and comical to watch. The parents stretch their necks to the sky and screech, defending their young. These animals fight hard and selflessly, but many eggs are stolen and babies killed.
On the way back, we found the rockhopper colony at the top of the cliffs, behind great mounds of tussock grass. These tiny penguins, about 30cm high, chatter constantly and are always busy, running, hopping, scolding. They are enchanting; a little society of their own, with their tiny babies just hatching. They bend over like little old people and scurry around, climbing up high cliffs, hop hop with their fish to feed their family.
Around the corner is the largest colony of King Cormorants we have yet seen. Thousands of birds, all sitting on nests of eggs or chicks. Beautiful elegant birds, with swan necks, irridescent blue eyes, and orange pom poms on their beaks. As they come in to land, they hover, brake with feet down and splayed,and drop their necks into an architectural arch. Inevitably, the colony is surrounded by skuas - but again, these birds are not only courageous for their own families, but for their community; we witnessed a group of birds squaring up to a skua in front of a single nest -a line of four male cormorants in a line a bit like footballers standing in front of the goal. They took it in turns to run at the skua - a bird two or three times their size.
Another bbq, another big sky, more feeding of lambs, and a quiet quiet night; no noise, apart from the waves, no light pollution. We have become accustomed to islands without roads, lights, cars, and generally without many people. We may need to be re-socialised...
Day 3 - proper Falklands weather - this morning it hailed. We went to the shop (!)which is Robert's store shed where he keeps two big freezers full of his meat. We chose our Sunday roasts for the next few weeks, filled up our cool box, and then wandered on the beach until the heli arrived. Back to normality..
u
Tuesday, 27 December 2011
Mare Harbour Trip - Saturday 17 December
Saturday morning saw Phoebe up and out of bed a lot earlier than she (or anyone else) might have wished as we joined our neighbours for a trip around the harbour – well, Gill & Phoebe did. Everyone had to wait for Bill to escape from work before setting sail.
Actually, there was no sail to set and for the ‘harbour’ one has to envisage only a couple of military jetties (warships, for the mooring of) surrounded by wide open spaces, interspersed with some stunning beaches (actually, that’s a description of most of the Falklands). The boat was no kiss-me-quick special either, but our very own landing craft (military designations being kept to ourselves for obvious reasons!) which had the advantage of allowing us to land without getting wet feet.
A short trip took us to Pandora’s Point and the chance to visit the Gentoo colony there. Cue attempts by Gill to shoo the Skuas away from the chicks and the general debate as to quite why these creatures often insist on taking a much longer land trip from the sea than seems natural. As ever, however, there was the general contentment that seems to be associated with watching a colony of these birds looking after their young and getting on with life.
Having re-embarked, our trip over to one of the small islands was diverted for some 45 minutes when one of the Search & Rescue helicopters spied the boat and took the opportunity to practise winching on and off a moving boat – deafening, but spectacular. SAR practice complete, we landed on the relatively small Sniper Island which, we were assured, one could walk around “in 5 minutes” – obviously by someone who had not set foot on it! The island, less the rocky foreshore, is completely covered by tussac grass well over head height. The tussacs were, however, separated by well-worn paths which could only have been made by the resident sea-lions and seals and so there was not too much blind charging about the place (warnings of not getting between a Sea Lion and the sea being uppermost in our minds). Patience was rewarded by finding a splendid young male Sea Lion and a curious youngster on the south side of the island, who then proceeded to swim around the crystal-clear water (being a typical Falkland day, we had started out prepared to get cold and soaked to find ourselves now in glorious sunshine). In all a fascinating few hours of wildlife watching – and all some 6 miles from the house!
Saunders island (again for mummy!) 16th December 2011
This was a girly trip for both mummy and I as Bill unfortunately had to stay at work. It was quite a long helicopter ride in some interesting weather conditions and at one stage we were told we might have to turn back. However, we arrived and set off first in search of the albatross colony which we found about half an hour later. When we found them, they were sitting on their nests which looked a bit like sandcastles. They were so white and their beaks were very impressive. They were also quite curious birds as one or two of them came to have a look at us a few times. Mummy said that she saw a baby chick as one of the birds stood up for a second (the lady who owned the island thought that they would all hatch in the next week or so).
After the Albatross, we headed up the hill to find a colony of Rockhopper penguins who had chicks which were probably about a week old at the most. Unhelpfully, there were two sheep also in the middle of the colony who were having difficulty trying not to step on the chicks! The Rockhoppers have red eyes which are quite scary but when you lie down next to them, they will come and see what you are. They are also quite amusing when you sit for a while and watch them.
After the Rockhoppers, we went down onto the beach and had a picnic surrounded by the Gentoo penguins and their chicks. We also saw some Magellanic penguins which nest in burrows underground and are said to be covered in flees.
After lunch, we made our way back up to the helicopter, and on the way got dive-bombed by Skewers, (which are birds which steal eggs from penguins).
By Phoebe xxxx
Sunday, 27 November 2011
Pebble Island 26 & 27 November
With only one weekend available before the 8,000 mile school run, we escaped to one of the Outer Islands for a short weekend – an extended day certainly felt much longer than the average weekend given the luxury of getting right away from it all. Pebble Island is famous for the SAS raid on the airfield during the 1982 Conflict but it offers a great deal more.
Arriving late morning on Saturday we were greeted by Ken at the airstrip and Sharon in the Lodge and after the obligatory (and delicious) tea and biscuits, Ken drove us up to the HMS Coventry memorial before leaving us to our own devices. The cunning part of this plan was that the memorial is sited half-way up First Mountain and therefore our walk would be largely downhill thereafter. With the morning’s forecast of increasing winds and likelihood of showers high in our minds, we were not too disappointed to find ourselves in a strong wind and the chance of squalls in this exposed location but we did remain long enough for me to get the brasso out and give the memorial’s plaque a good shine. (No, I don’t go on walking trips with a comprehensive domestic cleaning kit in my rucsac; all the memorials have an old ammo tin, or 2, nearby full of such things to spruce up the respective memorial.)
Typically, therefore, just as soon as we started down the hillside, the squalls disappeared and we had a glorious (if windy afternoon). It was sobering to walk through the wreckage field of an Argentine Dagger (Mirage) but having our sandwiches above Magellanic penguin burrows, waiting for them to stick their heads out, was an altogether different experience; as was walking into a roosting colony of South American Terns – the noise and movement was spectacular! The prize for persistency, however, has to go to the Magellanic Oystercatchers – definitely the watchmen of the foreshore with their very loud alarm calls and tireless efforts to distract you (we did also learn that these are the only birds that will kill skuas – given the carnage we know that these can wreak on Penguin eggs and chicks, our respect for these busy little birds has increased massively!). A really pleasant walk way from everybody (there was a total of 13 people on the island!) past hundreds of Magellanic Penguin burrows and along part of the pristine sand beach (at 4 miles, the longest in the Falklands) got us back to the Settlement and the lodge – a very comfortable residence run by Jackie Jennings and Allan White (who was absent at their new home on Lively Island).
After a luxuriously lazy night and bumper breakfast we joined the other 6 guests on a drive out to the East end of the Island to see the sizeable Rockhopper colonies – shared with Imperial Cormorants at the top of some pretty large and spectacular cliffs. These birds are real characters; they are not bothered by our presence, indeed, the penguins are curious little birds and will close up on you if you sit still. Despite the continuing predations of the skuas and petrels, most still seem to have at least one egg and many still have 2. Mixed in amongst them were also a handful of macaroni penguins (slightly bigger and with orange, not yellow, eyebrows) – so that is now all 5 Falkland species seen (don’t tell Phoebe!!). The morning had started grey and overcast but by now it had all burned off and we were blessed with a really warm, sunny day with only a steady breeze – perfect conditions to sit out and watch the wildlife. A short drive away we visited a number of Gentoo colonies – well inland and with the birds nesting in the diddle-dee (think small shrub). These birds are more advanced in their reproductive cycle with most nursing 2 chicks (again, the Darwinian approach to evolution, given the constant threat from skuas) – small grey bundles spending most of their time tucked away under one or other of their parents. Gentoos may not be the most ‘characterful’ of the penguins but it was especially relaxing to sit and watch (and listen) to the contented colony (except when a b****y skua flew over: all the adults stretched their beaks upwards and swore).
Lunch was had sat on the cliffs on the north of the island after spending ages lying on slabs of rock half-way down them watching 2 large harems of sea lions sunbathing (approx 30 animals in toto) at the bottom – these are big animals, even from 40 feet above they are impressive! After negotiating what seemed to be acres more of Magellanic burrows, a stop to look for Pebble Island ‘pebbles’ (agate: sadly for Gill, whilst I was able to find some, it will take quite a while to turn it into jewellery!) on one of the beaches punctuated the drive back. After a race down the 4 mile beach (also the reserve airstrip) both of us jumped out to walk the final mile back in order to sneak up on a young male (or female) sea lion lying fast asleep on the bank of one of the inland lakes – although not far from the sea one wonders if he was geographically embarrassed! Prudence ensured that we did not get too close, but it certainly did not seem disturbed at all! Time then for a quick cup of tea before flying back to the real hub-bub of Mount Pleasant!
Thursday, 24 November 2011
Back in England!!!
Hellooo everyone,
Back here at school, we are undefeated in netball, and have a lacrosse match this weekend! Mrs. H. is baking again for the lucky boarders who are getting the cookies every week. At the moment, we are working on a R.S. essay, about to be given an English essay, and have just handed in a History essay. Ahhh!
Christmas soon, and holidays!!!
Phoebe
Back here at school, we are undefeated in netball, and have a lacrosse match this weekend! Mrs. H. is baking again for the lucky boarders who are getting the cookies every week. At the moment, we are working on a R.S. essay, about to be given an English essay, and have just handed in a History essay. Ahhh!
Christmas soon, and holidays!!!
Phoebe
Thursday, 17 November 2011
Saunders island
Busy week with visitors, but yesterday I played truant; the heli had spaces,and I went on the post run, first to Mount Alice on West Falkland (the power station guys live up there miles from anywhere for months at a time,and we were delivering supplies and post, then on to Fox Bay (a large settlement on the West) and then on to Saunders Island .We were flying for over an hour, and at one point the typhoon roared past, waggled its wings and then flew underneath us! We landed on moorland near the main penguin colonies, and had 4 hours to ourselves. Mr and Mrs Pole-Evans run Saunders island - apart from them, the place is deserted - but it is quite a substantial island - probably 10 miles or so from their house to where we landed, with no road.
It was an idyllic day - windy as normal, but blue skies and warmth. The hole in the ozone is right above us here, so we do have to be very careful. We hosted the fusiliers for lunch last week, and they were all burnt like walnuts after a 5 hour yomp across the island.
It is about 40 minutes walk from the landing site down to the beach. As you reach and summit the hill, the 'neck' - a sandy beach joining two hills - stretches out in front of you, covered with hundreds of black dots - gentoos. As you get closer, you can see them running in and out of the water, flopping on their bellies, and jumping the waves. On the side of the rocks, our first Rockhopper penguins (if you are reading this Phoebe - don't worry, I'll take you there). Tiny - 30cm or so, living happily mixed up with imperial cormorants who were busy plucking moorland to build their nests, the Rockhoppers are fascinating. Curious little creatures, jumping from rock to rock, up, up from the sea, higher up the cliffs, splashing in waterfalls and stopping to have a good look at us , with no fear at all. Sitting still for even 5 minutes brings a line of penguins trudging past your seat. Little red eyes and wild yellow eyebrows..and many have already laid an egg - the size of a chicken egg - and keep jumping off to check it's still there.
Further along the path,and the rockhoppers give way to.., albatross. This is what I came to the Falklands to see. Amazing birds. Calm, elegant, they are sitting on little mud sand castle nests which they have carefully built. From time to time they move and you can see a huge white egg. They are very much married; their partner arrives regularly, and they begin a preening routine which is gentle and meticulous. Their feathers are so clean; these are black browed albatross, pure white bodies, grey wings, and a kohl black line swept across the tops of their eyes.Their feet are a ghostly grey. Again,no fear, so one landed by my head and plodded up to me to take a look. Huge beak - a little intimidating,but no sign of aggression..and when they fly, their elegant slim wings stretch out so far. The wing span is huge - 2-3 m I think.
Down to the beach, and around 20 King penguins, looking terribly smart with their yellow throats. An old whale skeleton,and then hundreds of gentoo penguins. I sat on the beach and watched happy penguins waddling in and out of the waves as I ate my sandwich. A pretty good picnic spot.
I will be back!
It was an idyllic day - windy as normal, but blue skies and warmth. The hole in the ozone is right above us here, so we do have to be very careful. We hosted the fusiliers for lunch last week, and they were all burnt like walnuts after a 5 hour yomp across the island.
It is about 40 minutes walk from the landing site down to the beach. As you reach and summit the hill, the 'neck' - a sandy beach joining two hills - stretches out in front of you, covered with hundreds of black dots - gentoos. As you get closer, you can see them running in and out of the water, flopping on their bellies, and jumping the waves. On the side of the rocks, our first Rockhopper penguins (if you are reading this Phoebe - don't worry, I'll take you there). Tiny - 30cm or so, living happily mixed up with imperial cormorants who were busy plucking moorland to build their nests, the Rockhoppers are fascinating. Curious little creatures, jumping from rock to rock, up, up from the sea, higher up the cliffs, splashing in waterfalls and stopping to have a good look at us , with no fear at all. Sitting still for even 5 minutes brings a line of penguins trudging past your seat. Little red eyes and wild yellow eyebrows..and many have already laid an egg - the size of a chicken egg - and keep jumping off to check it's still there.
Further along the path,and the rockhoppers give way to.., albatross. This is what I came to the Falklands to see. Amazing birds. Calm, elegant, they are sitting on little mud sand castle nests which they have carefully built. From time to time they move and you can see a huge white egg. They are very much married; their partner arrives regularly, and they begin a preening routine which is gentle and meticulous. Their feathers are so clean; these are black browed albatross, pure white bodies, grey wings, and a kohl black line swept across the tops of their eyes.Their feet are a ghostly grey. Again,no fear, so one landed by my head and plodded up to me to take a look. Huge beak - a little intimidating,but no sign of aggression..and when they fly, their elegant slim wings stretch out so far. The wing span is huge - 2-3 m I think.
Down to the beach, and around 20 King penguins, looking terribly smart with their yellow throats. An old whale skeleton,and then hundreds of gentoo penguins. I sat on the beach and watched happy penguins waddling in and out of the waves as I ate my sandwich. A pretty good picnic spot.
I will be back!
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